Day 1 - Getting to Reykjavik
We landed at Keflavik airport, picked up the rental car and drove to our hotel in Reykjavik. Our first stop was a bakery at the end of the street for breakfast. We spent the day walking around the waterfront and downtown area. And we ate our first Icelandic meal -- Italian pasta. We stayed at the Holt Hotel for two nights.
Day 2 - Driving the Golden Circle
We ventured out of Reykjavik and into the unknown. We drove the Golden Circle to see Pingvellir National Park, Geysir and the Gullfoss waterfall. Plus, we checked out Kerid Crater, Skalholt church and many other amazing sites along the way.
Day 3 - The Blue Lagoon to Vik
We left Reykjavik and started our 2,720-km journey around the Ring Road and beyond. We stopped at the Blue Lagoon for a good soak. We spent more than two hours relaxing in the warm water, slathering the mud on our skin, getting pounded by a waterfall and drinking spring water from the in-lagoon bar before we were pruned enough to surrender and go back to land. We ate great sandwiches in the glass-walled cafe overlooking the lagoon.
After our visit to the Blue Lagoon, we drove to Vik, stopping at the Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss waterfalls.
We ate dinner at Halldors Cafe and stayed at the Country Hotel Hofdabrekka.
Day 4 - Vik to Skaftafell
After breakfast, we walked on the black sand beach in Vik, took pictures, saw a seal and shared a sandwich for lunch at the gas station cafe.
Then we headed to Skaftafell National Park, which borders the Vatnajokull glacier. In the late afternoon, we went on a guided hike to the Skaftafellsjokull glacier.
We stayed at the Fosshotel Skaftafell, at the foot of the glacier. We had amazing lamb shanks for dinner. Twice. And ice cream made from glacial ice.
Story: Hot volcanic ash
Between Vik and Skaftafell, we came to a particularly beautiful and deserted stretch of the Ring Road that starts to curve around Vatnajokull.
Between Vik and Skaftafell, we came to a particularly beautiful and deserted stretch of the Ring Road that starts to curve around Vatnajokull.
Grimsvotn, a volcano beneath the icecap, had erupted a month earlier. A layer of ash heated by the bright sunlight was covering both sides of the road - glaciers, cliffs, fields, everything we could see.
But the pavement was clear and we drove through. Alone.
Day 5 - Skaftafell and JokulsarlonBut the pavement was clear and we drove through. Alone.
We went for a morning hike in Skaftafell to see the Svartifoss waterfall and Sel farmhouse. In the afternoon, we went to the stunning Jokulsarlon Glacial Lagoon. On the boat ride, the massive blue, white and black chunks of ice are at eye level. And we got to hold and eat 1,500-year-old ice from the glacier. After the boat ride, we walked along the shore of the lagoon, under the massive bridge and to the black sand beach, watching massive chunks of ice float down the channel and into the sea. Then we headed back to the Fosshotel Skaftafell for a second night.
Day 6 - Seydisfjordur
We left Skaftafell and drove to Seydisfjordur in East Iceland. On the way, we stopped at a farm in Holmur and got a tour of the petting zoo with horses, goats and many varieties of rabbits and birds. We ate lunch in Hofn at Kaffi Hornid, a log cabin restaurant in the center of town. The road between Egilsstadir and Seydisfjordur was covered in fog, a white-knuckled ride for 30 minutes. We stayed at the Hotel Snaefell in Seydisfordur for one night. We had a great time hanging out at the Skaftafell Bistro and Cultural Center, playing cards and laughing before and after eating dinner at the restaurant at Hotel Aldan.
Day 7 - Lake Myvatn
We climbed up and down back over the mountain from Seydisfjordur and drove to Lake Myvatn. On the way, we stopped a few miles off the Ring Road at the tiny village of Modrudalur and had coffee at the cafe. At Lake Myvatn, we ate lunch at Vogars Cowshed Cafe, climbed the Hverfell crater, wandered through the Dimmuborgir lava field and took a dip in the Myvatn Nature Baths. We stayed at the Hotel Reynihlid for two nights. We ate dinner at the hotel restaurant.
Story: Lost fanny pack
When we checked into the Hotel Reynihlid at Lake Myvatn, Alison opened the door on the side of the desk, to see if there was a safe inside.
"Oh my God, someone forgot this!" she exclaimed, whipping out a black fanny pack.
"Is there anything in it? Brian asked nervously, knowing there had to be.
Within three seconds of unzipping the pouch, we saw everything -- two passports, a roll of cash, airline boarding passes, credit cards, IDs... This woman's life was in our hands.
We were both so panicked that you'd think we were the ones who'd lost this stuff. We sprinted down to the super nice and helpful receptionist. She hopped onto the computer right away and started to track down this person. (Fashion note from Alison: the receptionsist was wearing the most awesome orange strappy high heels!)
When we checked back a few hours later, the woman had picked up her fanny pack and was thrilled that everything was still in it. We were happy, too. Worst. Travel. Nightmare.
Story: Lost fanny pack
When we checked into the Hotel Reynihlid at Lake Myvatn, Alison opened the door on the side of the desk, to see if there was a safe inside.
"Oh my God, someone forgot this!" she exclaimed, whipping out a black fanny pack.
"Is there anything in it? Brian asked nervously, knowing there had to be.
Within three seconds of unzipping the pouch, we saw everything -- two passports, a roll of cash, airline boarding passes, credit cards, IDs... This woman's life was in our hands.
We were both so panicked that you'd think we were the ones who'd lost this stuff. We sprinted down to the super nice and helpful receptionist. She hopped onto the computer right away and started to track down this person. (Fashion note from Alison: the receptionsist was wearing the most awesome orange strappy high heels!)
When we checked back a few hours later, the woman had picked up her fanny pack and was thrilled that everything was still in it. We were happy, too. Worst. Travel. Nightmare.
Day 8 - Krafla and Dettifoss
We explored more natural wonders around the Krafla volcano, including the Hverir geothernal field and Viti crater, and went to the Dettifoss waterfall. We also drove around Lake Myvatn and checked out pseudocraters and the bird museum. We ate dinner in the restaurant at Hotel Reykjahlid.
Day 9 - Akureyri
We left Lake Myvatn for Akureyri, the hub of North Iceland. We stopped at the Godafoss waterfall on the way in and at the Christmas House on the way out. During the day, we walked around Akureyri, shopped and hung out at a cafe in downtown. We had dinner at Bautinn restaurant and stayed at the Kea Hotel.
Day 10 - Gauksmyri Horse Farm
We left Akureyri and went to the Gauksmyri horse farm. We chilled out at the farm in the afternoon, wandered around the pastures and stables and had a grilled dinner that included trout, chicken, whale, horse and lamb. About 80 horses were grazing outside the glass-enclosed dining room while we ate. We slept in a second-floor room overlooking the pasture.
After breakfast, we went horseback riding and left Gauksmyri farm for the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. We had lunch at Fimm Fiskar restaurant in Stykkisholmur and walked around the town and waterfront. We ate dinner upstairs at Narfeyrarstofa restaurant. We stayed at the Hotel Breidafjordur.
Day 12 - Snaefellsnes Peninsula to Keflavik
On our 11th wedding anniverary, we left Stykkisholmur and drove around the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. We stopped in Arnarstapi and hiked the 2.5-km oceanside trail to the neighboring village of Hellnar. We ate fish stew and vegetable quiche for lunch at the end of the trail in Hellnar on a seaside deck at the Fjoruhusid Cafe. Then we hiked back and drove to Keflavik. We walked down the main street to the harbor for a seafood meal at Kaffi Duus restaurant. We stayed in a suite on the top floor at Hotel Keflavik.
